Frequently Asked Questions

Ordinary epoxy ambers when the sun hits it, can be slippery when wet without a texture additive, and needs several days before you can park on it. It also fails if laid over a damp or dirty slab. In Orlando we answer those issues with moisture testing, grinding, UV-stable topcoats and grit in the final coat.

It costs more than paint and less than most tile. In HomeGuide's numbers, epoxy installed comes to $4 to $10 per square foot; for polyaspartic, the range is $5 to $12. Old coatings, cracks and decorative finishes push the total up. Your written estimate is the number that counts.

A 20 by 20 floor is 400 square feet, about the size of a smaller two-car garage. For a garage that size, HomeGuide's range is $1,600 to $5,800 with epoxy and $2,000 to $6,900 with polyaspartic. Condition and finish decide where yours falls.

Larger areas are usually priced by the square foot, so start with the per-foot ranges: HomeGuide lists $4 to $10 for epoxy, and HomeAdvisor lists commercial 100% solids systems at $12 or more. Big open floors often price lower per foot than small ones, but prep and repairs vary. We measure and quote it in writing.

Yes, with care. We check air and slab temperature plus humidity ahead of each coat, keep the garage closed to rain, and match the primer to the moisture number. If a storm day makes conditions wrong, we move the coat rather than force it.

Often not, but it depends on your declaration. Florida statute 720.3035 limits association control over interior areas that cannot be seen from the street, neighbors or common areas. Driveways, pool decks and visible areas may still need approval, so check your documents. We can supply samples if they ask.

It depends on the system. HomeGuide's figures put polyaspartic at roughly 24 to 48 hours before heavy vehicles, and epoxy at as long as a week for a full cure. Your quote carries the specific times for your products.

Tires lifting a coating is mostly a problem of thin paints and kits applied over poorly prepared concrete. A ground slab with a full-thickness base and a polyaspartic topcoat holds up to Florida summer tires.

No. Old paint and sealers get ground away until the resin can lock onto bare concrete. Coating over old paint ties the new floor to whatever is holding the old one, which is usually not much.

High gloss turns slippery once water is on it. Chips give the surface some tooth, and grit stirred into the clear adds more.

Yes. The whole floor has to be ground and coated, so cars, shelving and stored items need to come out before we start and stay out until the floor has cured.

HomeGuide puts solid epoxy at 10 to 20 years and water-based kits at 3 to 5. Prep, thickness, sun exposure and how hard the garage is used decide where yours falls.

They are the same thing. Flake, chip and vinyl flake all describe colored vinyl pieces broadcast into a resin base and sealed under a clear coat.

Yes, that is its main strength. The speckled pattern hides sand, dust, pollen and light tire marks far better than a solid color.

It can on a covered lanai, as long as the clear is UV stable and textured. For an open pool deck, see our pool deck and lanai page for options built for full sun and bare feet.

Expect a crew in the garage for roughly a day, sometimes a second. Cure time before parking depends on whether the clear is epoxy or polyaspartic, and we write down the specific times in writing.

Neither is better everywhere. Polyaspartic sets far quicker and handles sunlight much better. Epoxy goes on thicker in each pass and gives the crew more working time. Plenty of our garages pair the two, epoxy underneath and polyaspartic on the surface.

Often, yes, if the slab tests dry and the weather cooperates. A high moisture reading or a lot of repairs may add a day, and that comes up at the estimate, not later.

It is aliphatic, so it resists yellowing much better than epoxy. For UV resistance, HomeGuide's rating is excellent.

HomeGuide says a polyaspartic coating can last 10 to 20 years or longer, with prep, use and care making the difference.

It will follow the same colors and technique, but each pour moves differently. Expect the same style with its own pattern.

We prefer to go onto concrete. Tile and grout lines usually need to come up, or be fully filled and leveled, so nothing ghosts up through the color.

It is a full epoxy system, so it handles normal foot traffic and furniture well with a good clear on top. It is not intended for open garages in full sun or outdoor areas.

Usually several days, because each layer must cure. We give you a written timeline up front.

Usually. We can phase the work by zone, schedule after hours, and use faster-curing products where they fit. Expect at least a day or two per area.

A thick 100% solids epoxy system on a properly ground slab is designed for that use. We size the build to your equipment and traffic.

Yes. We can lay aisle lines, safety colors and marked zones as part of the coating.

Yes. We slope and finish around drains and can add a cove base. The final spec should meet what your inspector or facility team requires.

It depends on sun, budget and look. Spray texture overlays stay cooler and grip well, decorative overlays add style, and resin coatings work well on covered lanais with a UV-stable top.

Yes, if the concrete is sound. Overlays and coatings bond to cleaned and prepared concrete. Sunken or broken sections need repair first.

Not if it is built right. We build texture into every pool deck surface and add grit to resin coatings.

Usually a few days, set by the product and the forecast. We give you foot traffic and furniture times in writing.